Have You Ever Heard a Rhinoceros Snore?

Secretary Bird at Ithala Game Reserve, South AfricaI’d like to briefly introduce you to my South Africa. No, I’m not a local – I’ve only been to South Africa a handful of times. But the first impression that I felt when I first stepped off the airplane in South Africa was “I could live here!” – and I was inflicted with a tremendous sense of belonging. If I could convince you to even visit just once, I’ll have done my duty. South Africa is my favorite destination in the world. It is so layered, full of culture and wildlife… and I fell in love.

The main reason for my visit to Johannesburg was to visit my friend, Kim, for her birthday celebration and to drive out for a long weekend to the Tuli Block in Botswana. It would be my first time in the bush, or “on a safari” as Americans so fondly like to say. Being in the middle of rainy season, the severe thunderstorms literally forced us away from our itinerary; it simply wouldn’t be smart for us to get flooded out, or stranded by jeep crossing a wildly flowing river with wild rhino and elephants. So we made a last minute decision to instead head to Zululand in the Northern Natul Territory. We were determined to start our adventure with a bit of sun, some 4×4 action and the Big Five of Africa (lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino).

Zebra at Sunset in South AfricaA 5 1/2 hour drive northeast of Johannesburg, we passed sunflower fields as we entered the Kwazulu Natal Territory. Entering the Ithala Game Reserve we spotted zebra immediately and the excitement mounted. We were told that the reserve had all of the Big Five animals except the king of the jungle, and that recently the herd of 100+ elephants had been spooked and were being shy. The vegetation was so lush and green and the ride mountainous – hardly the flora and terrain you’d expect to find in neighboring Kruger National Park. 

Many miles into the park and hundreds of “ewes and awes” as we passed by white rhino, wildebeest and giraffe, we came upon our private camp – five cabins with a separate cabin housing the kitchen, living room, outside patio with a fire pit overlooking the hills and outdoor bathrooms. Hidden in the hills among boulders, our camp silently melted into the natural landscape. Binoculars were always within an arms length away. Impala, warthogs, zebra – all could be seen from the safety of the patio and it was fun trying to spot them among the vegetation. The camp was not fenced in, which made us think twice about having walk to the bathroom in the middle of the night. Interestingly, the first night at camp, it wasn’t the thought of cougars and leopards roaming the camp that kept me awake – it was the rats in the walls and the bats swooping over me that made me throw a cover over my head!

White Rhinos in South AfricaTwice daily, we did a game drive – once in the early morning, and one at sunset.  We were always anxious to jump in the 4×4 and get into the backcountry to see more big game. Wild dogs became big on our to-see list, as was finding the black rhino and shy elephants. White rhinos sightings were prevalent, which is very unique to this reserve. But each rhino sighting was uniquely different – one female sauntering with her baby, and another male taking a mud bath. We also had a resident white rhino that took his spot every day in our “backyard.”

Our first “bush walk” led by a ranger was spine tingling and downright dangerous (once we thought about it), but we loved every minute of it. The ranger walked us right off our back patio and straight down the hill to the resident rhino – without a gun in hand. Rhino’s have bad eyesight and a horrible sense of smell, so we were sure to stay out of his down wind. He sensed us, and woke up from his nap, and we were literally 50 feet in front of him gasping as we snapped off photos, and soaked up the incredible moment. Did I mention we spotted fresh tracks from a leopard on this walk? The claw marks on tree trunks? And that we were without a gun?

Giraffe in South AfricaWalking through grass taller than our heads, the ranger pointed out marula fruit desired by elephants, and the soft tree leaves that were used by the Zulu for toilet paper. I photographed Pygmy kingfisher birds and secretary birds, chased wart hogs with my camera, and walked past baboons in tall grass making a racket because we were too close. Wild zebra looked us straight in the eye. We were determined to find the spooked elephants! Sadly, it never happened.

But the two most intense moments that are forever etched in my head: taking a shower in the middle of the wide-open jungle as I watched giraffes graze on a neighboring hill! I can’t even describe the feeling. All I know is that I’d like to have that same experience again someday before I die. And on my final 4×4 excursion in the early morning fog – we drove within feet of a sleeping rhinoceros, and he was snoring…! Priceless.

Sleeping Rhino in South AfricaReflecting back to my trip to South Africa, a warm yet intense feeling overcomes me – a feeling of being in love and never wanting that feeling to end. South Africa embraced me as her own; but you’ll simply never understand it unless you experience it for yourself. So book yourself a trip to South Africa, and go fall in love.

For Carefree Vacations, Sherry Martin  

Learn more about Sherry Martin        

Photography by Sherry Martin        

Portfolio: www.sherrymartinphotography.com        

Blog: http://dynamictraveler.wordpress.com

 

Want to go on a safari like Sherry? Check out tours by Micato Safari or view this brochure of safaris by Abercrombie & Kent. Abercrombie & Kent Africa Tours BrochureCarefree Vacations travel experts have the insight to choose the perfect safari for you! Call 1.800.CONFIRM or email info@carefreevacations.com

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